Marco Pedrini

Portrait of the young Ticinese alpinist Marco Pedrini, who died prematurely in 1986 after completing the first solo ascent of the Via Americana on the Dru on Mount Blanc. A very strong alpinist, Pedrini is remembered by everybody as a genial, curious and irreverent climber, always wanting to frighten and introduce innovations. A protagonist of a season of great revolutions in the history of alpinism, Pedrini has left many exploits and intuitions on the development of the art of climbing. The documentary is composed with footage of his activity and talks with his friend Romolo Nottaris and Fulvio Mariani.

Romolo, le tiroir de mes rêves is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in Everest and Cerro Torre. It was directed by Pierre-Antoine Hiroz in 2014 and produced by RTS. It is a part of the series Passe-moi les jumelles. It features Romolo Nottaris, Anna Mattei, Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat, Ueli Steck, Simon Anthamatten and others.

The first ascent on the Cerro Torre in solitary and one day. November 26th, 1985. Late in the afternoon, Marco Pedrini attempted his descent. Assisted by a splendid full moon, he managed to reach the camp where his friends were waiting for his return, at 3 o’clock in the morning. Pedrini returned onto the peak on December 1st, with cameraman Fulvio Mariani. The weather was not good, so they both had to repeat their enterprise on December 1st in order to complete shooting on the higher part of the mountain. On December 23rd they climbed more than half way up and put the final touch to the first professional film shot on the Cerro Torre in the Patagonian Andes.