Filmography

Michel Vaucher

24 films

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    L'ascension de la face nord du Petit Clocher du Portalet

    Michel Darbellay (1963)

    L'ascension de la face nord du Petit Clocher du Portalet is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in Petit Clocher Du Portlaet. It was directed by Michel Darbellay in 1963 and produced by Michel Darbellay. It features Michel Vaucher and Michel Darbellay.

    Switzerland / 35 min

    L'ascension de la face nord du Petit Clocher du Portalet

    Michel Darbellay

    • 1963
    • Switzerland
    • 35 min
    L'ascension de la face nord du Petit Clocher du Portalet is a documentary about rock climbing that takes place in Petit Clocher Du Portlaet. It was directed by Michel Darbellay in 1963 and produced by Michel Darbellay. It features Michel Vaucher and Michel Darbellay.

    Climbing locations

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  • Documentary / Expedition Journal

    Surrender to Everest

    Surrender to Everest

    Ned Kelly (1971)

    Norman Dyhrenfurth leads an expedition with thirty climbers from thirteen different countries including Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Naomi Uemura, Pierre Mazeaud, and others. This optimistic expedition hopes to simultaneously climb the SW Face and the West Ridge Direct, but is fraught with one-upmanship, personality conflicts, and organizational problems. Harsh Bahuguna is caught out in a storm at Camp 3 and died despite the efforts of the rescue party. The expedition falters after his death, but Whillans and Haston push the SW Face route up to 27,400 feet (8,350 meters) before lack of equipment forces an end to the expedition.

    UK / 102 min

    Surrender to Everest

    Ned Kelly, Anthony Thomas

    • 1971
    • UK
    • 102 min
    Norman Dyhrenfurth leads an expedition with thirty climbers from thirteen different countries including Don Whillans, Dougal Haston, Naomi Uemura, Pierre Mazeaud, and others. This optimistic expedition hopes to simultaneously climb the SW Face and the West Ridge Direct, but is fraught with one-upmanship, personality conflicts, and organizational problems. Harsh Bahuguna is caught out in a storm at Camp 3 and died despite the efforts of the rescue party. The expedition falters after his death, but Whillans and Haston push the SW Face route up to 27,400 feet (8,350 meters) before lack of equipment forces an end to the expedition.

    Climbing locations

  • Documentary / Live Broadcast

    Men against the Matterhorn

    Men against the Matterhorn

    Alan Chivers (1965)

    A climb to mark the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, live on TV. The program, a co-production of the Swiss, French, Italian and British televisions, was shown throughout Europe, in the United States and in Japan in a series of 5 broadcasts between 8 and 16h. This film is the re-edited version by the BBC of all the broadcasts in a single program. Ian McNaught-Davis roped with the guide Heinrich Taugwalder and Jean Juge with Robert Bichler narrate the ascent while they climb by the original Whymper route. They follow the progression of Michel Darbellay and Hilti von Allmen who climb the north face by the Schmidt route. All them meet at the summit.

    UK / 50 min

    Men against the Matterhorn

    Men against the Matterhorn

    Alan Chivers

    • 1965
    • UK
    • 50 min
    A climb to mark the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, live on TV. The program, a co-production of the Swiss, French, Italian and British televisions, was shown throughout Europe, in the United States and in Japan in a series of 5 broadcasts between 8 and 16h. This film is the re-edited version by the BBC of all the broadcasts in a single program. Ian McNaught-Davis roped with the guide Heinrich Taugwalder and Jean Juge with Robert Bichler narrate the ascent while they climb by the original Whymper route. They follow the progression of Michel Darbellay and Hilti von Allmen who climb the north face by the Schmidt route. All them meet at the summit.

    Climbing locations

  • Documentary / Portrait

    Lionel Terray

    (1965)

    Lionel Terray, the famous French mountain guide, died at the age of 44 on a rock climb in the Vercors, south of Grenoble, on 19 September 1965. This short report is the hommage by the French television, broadcasted one month later within the program 'Les coulisses de l'exploit'. The documentary remembers his alpine career and shows archive images of some of the expeditions he took part in (Annapurna, Chacraraju, Jannu, Mont Huntington) and ends with excerpts of his ascent to Grand Capucin from the film 'Les etoiles du midi', by Marcel Ichac and Jacques Ertaud.

    France / 10 min

    Lionel Terray


    • 1965
    • France
    • 10 min
    Lionel Terray, the famous French mountain guide, died at the age of 44 on a rock climb in the Vercors, south of Grenoble, on 19 September 1965. This short report is the hommage by the French television, broadcasted one month later within the program 'Les coulisses de l'exploit'. The documentary remembers his alpine career and shows archive images of some of the expeditions he took part in (Annapurna, Chacraraju, Jannu, Mont Huntington) and ends with excerpts of his ascent to Grand Capucin from the film 'Les etoiles du midi', by Marcel Ichac and Jacques Ertaud.

    Climbing locations

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  • Documentary / Biographical

    Don Whillans - Myth and legend DVD

    Don Whillans - Myth and legend

    Leo Dickinson (2006)

    Don Whillans was one of the leading rock climbers of his generation. This film examines Don’s gritstone horrors, his hard routes in Wales, then follows him to the Alps and beyond on several of his epic expeditions. But it also focuses on Don’s unique humor, his devastating oneliners that pricked pomposity wherever he found it and poked fun at those who deserved it. Don may have died 20 years ago but the myth surrounding Whillans can still be heard whenever climbers reminisce about a time when hard men were hard and legends were being made. Perhaps his partner Joe Brown best sums him up, 'Don was unique'.

    UK / 80 min

    Don Whillans - Myth and legend

    Leo Dickinson

    • 2006
    • UK
    • 80 min
    Don Whillans was one of the leading rock climbers of his generation. This film examines Don’s gritstone horrors, his hard routes in Wales, then follows him to the Alps and beyond on several of his epic expeditions. But it also focuses on Don’s unique humor, his devastating oneliners that pricked pomposity wherever he found it and poked fun at those who deserved it. Don may have died 20 years ago but the myth surrounding Whillans can still be heard whenever climbers reminisce about a time when hard men were hard and legends were being made. Perhaps his partner Joe Brown best sums him up, 'Don was unique'.

    Climbing locations

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    DVD / BLU-RAY
  • Documentary / Historical

    Another golden age of alpinism

    Another golden age of alpinism

    Richard Else (1992)

    Third episode of 'The climbers', a six-part series on the history of mountaineering by Chris Bonington and Richard Else produced by the BBC. This program focuses on three outstanding postwar climbers: the Italian Walter Bonatti, the Frenchman Rene Desmaison, and the presenter of the series, Chris Bonington. The episode covers the years following the second world war, described as an era as exciting as the first Victorian golden age of alpinism.

    UK / 30 min

    Another golden age of alpinism

    Richard Else

    • 1992
    • UK
    • 30 min
    Third episode of 'The climbers', a six-part series on the history of mountaineering by Chris Bonington and Richard Else produced by the BBC. This program focuses on three outstanding postwar climbers: the Italian Walter Bonatti, the Frenchman Rene Desmaison, and the presenter of the series, Chris Bonington. The episode covers the years following the second world war, described as an era as exciting as the first Victorian golden age of alpinism.

    Climbing locations

  • Documentary / Expedition Journal

    Erfolg am Dhaulagiri

    Erfolg am Dhaulagiri

    Norman Dyhrenfurth (1960)

    Erfolg am Dhaulagiri is a documentary about alpinism that takes place in Dhaulagiri. It was directed by Norman Dyhrenfurth in 1960. It features Max Eiselin, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Ernst Forrer, Georg Hajdukiewicz and others.

    Switzerland / 56 min

    Erfolg am Dhaulagiri

    Norman Dyhrenfurth

    • 1960
    • Switzerland
    • 56 min
    Erfolg am Dhaulagiri is a documentary about alpinism that takes place in Dhaulagiri. It was directed by Norman Dyhrenfurth in 1960. It features Max Eiselin, Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Ernst Forrer, Georg Hajdukiewicz and others.

    Climbing locations

  • Documentary / Making Of

    Les habitants des Flammes de Pierre

    Gilbert Dassonville (1959)

    Making of the film 'Le pilier de la solitude', a film that recreates the historical ascent of the southwest pillar of the Drus (the Bonatti Pillar), in the Mont Blanc Massif, by Walter Bonatti in 1955. A 800 meters high vertical wall that Bonatti did solo over the course of six days with provisions for only three days. In the film, the notorious swiss alpinist Michel Vaucher plays the role of Bonatti. Unlike the film Le Pilier de la solitude, which was shot in black and white, the making of was shot in beautiful color.

    France / 23 min

    Les habitants des Flammes de Pierre

    Gilbert Dassonville

    • 1959
    • France
    • 23 min
    Making of the film 'Le pilier de la solitude', a film that recreates the historical ascent of the southwest pillar of the Drus (the Bonatti Pillar), in the Mont Blanc Massif, by Walter Bonatti in 1955. A 800 meters high vertical wall that Bonatti did solo over the course of six days with provisions for only three days. In the film, the notorious swiss alpinist Michel Vaucher plays the role of Bonatti. Unlike the film Le Pilier de la solitude, which was shot in black and white, the making of was shot in beautiful color.

    Climbing locations

    Availability

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Expedition Hoggar 79

    Louis Barby (1979)

    Documentary of the 1979 expedition to the Atakor massif (Hoggar desert, Algeria), organized by the Geneva mountaineer Michel Vaucher. The group of climbers carry out the different climbs - nearly 10- with the help of experienced mountaineers Michel Vaucher and Jean-Blaise Fellay. They climb the summit of Adaouda (meaning finger in Tuareg, Tamahak) by several routes. Later, the climbers open a new route on the summits of the southern Tezoulegs. They discover the geological features, including the volcanic origin of the Atakor. Swiss mountaineers also meet the region's nomadic inhabitants, the Tuaregs, even though the latter are settling in the city of Tamanrasset.

    Switzerland / 48 min

    Expedition Hoggar 79

    Louis Barby

    • 1979
    • Switzerland
    • 48 min
    Documentary of the 1979 expedition to the Atakor massif (Hoggar desert, Algeria), organized by the Geneva mountaineer Michel Vaucher. The group of climbers carry out the different climbs - nearly 10- with the help of experienced mountaineers Michel Vaucher and Jean-Blaise Fellay. They climb the summit of Adaouda (meaning finger in Tuareg, Tamahak) by several routes. Later, the climbers open a new route on the summits of the southern Tezoulegs. They discover the geological features, including the volcanic origin of the Atakor. Swiss mountaineers also meet the region's nomadic inhabitants, the Tuaregs, even though the latter are settling in the city of Tamanrasset.

    Climbing locations

    Availability

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  • Documentary / Chronicle

    Sensation Alpen DVD

    Sensation Alpen

    Lothar Brandler (1966)

    From Trento to Chamonix to Zermat; from Porto Morgiau to the north face of the Eiger; from Planica to the peaks of Lavaredo. The Alps are portrayed, illustrated and exalted in their unique and superb beauty, in the sports that are practiced there, in the most typical and characteristic customs and traditions of the inhabitants. A helicopter rescue and a parachute jump from the Red Wall by Wolfgang Weizenbocks are not to be missed.

    Germany / 69 min

    Sensation Alpen

    Lothar Brandler

    • 1966
    • Germany
    • 69 min
    From Trento to Chamonix to Zermat; from Porto Morgiau to the north face of the Eiger; from Planica to the peaks of Lavaredo. The Alps are portrayed, illustrated and exalted in their unique and superb beauty, in the sports that are practiced there, in the most typical and characteristic customs and traditions of the inhabitants. A helicopter rescue and a parachute jump from the Red Wall by Wolfgang Weizenbocks are not to be missed.

    Climbing locations

    Availability

    DVD / BLU-RAY
  • Documentary / Historical

    Seine Hoheit

    Seine Hoheit

    Eugen Beck (1973)

    Guides from Valtournanche and Zermatt present the ridges and walls of the Matterhorn. We watch north wall climbers practising on Mont Salève. A film by Eugen Beck with Ettore Bich, Michel Vaucher, Yvette Vaucher, Othmar Kronig, Gottfried Perren and Elias Julen.

    Switzerland / 17 min

    Seine Hoheit

    Eugen Beck

    • 1973
    • Switzerland
    • 17 min
    Guides from Valtournanche and Zermatt present the ridges and walls of the Matterhorn. We watch north wall climbers practising on Mont Salève. A film by Eugen Beck with Ettore Bich, Michel Vaucher, Yvette Vaucher, Othmar Kronig, Gottfried Perren and Elias Julen.

    Climbing locations

  • Documentary / Live Broadcast

    En direct du Cervin Vod

    En direct du Cervin

    (1965)

    A climb to mark the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, live on TV. The programme, a coproduction of the Swiss, French, Italian and British televisions, was shown throughout Europe, in the United States and in Japan in a series of 5 broadcasts between 8 and 16h. This film is the reedited version by the french televison of all the broadcasts in a single program. Ian McNaught-Davis roped with the guide Heinrich Taugwalder and Jean Juge with Robert Bichler narrate the ascent while they climb by the original Whymper route. They follow the progression of Michel Darbellay and Hilti von Allmen who climb the north face by the Schmidt route. All them meet at the summit. Michel Vaucher, Yvette Vaucher and Othmar Kronig who were also ascending the north face are interviewed, and the program ends with the television teams descending the mountain. Ettore Bich and Paul Etter were ascended by the italian side.

    France, Italy, Switzerland, UK / 43 min

    En direct du Cervin


    • 1965
    • France, Italy, Switzerland, UK
    • 43 min
    A climb to mark the 100th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, live on TV. The programme, a coproduction of the Swiss, French, Italian and British televisions, was shown throughout Europe, in the United States and in Japan in a series of 5 broadcasts between 8 and 16h. This film is the reedited version by the french televison of all the broadcasts in a single program. Ian McNaught-Davis roped with the guide Heinrich Taugwalder and Jean Juge with Robert Bichler narrate the ascent while they climb by the original Whymper route. They follow the progression of Michel Darbellay and Hilti von Allmen who climb the north face by the Schmidt route. All them meet at the summit. Michel Vaucher, Yvette Vaucher and Othmar Kronig who were also ascending the north face are interviewed, and the program ends with the television teams descending the mountain. Ettore Bich and Paul Etter were ascended by the italian side.

    Climbing locations

    Availability

    Video on Demand

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