Ramesh Sahi

Gyachung Kang 7952 m is located in the central Himalaya on the border between China and Nepal, thirty kilometers west of Everest, just near Cho Oyu. Only one previous expedition had climbed the mountain. In 1964 two members of a Japanese team had made the first ascent, climbing a snow-gully on the west flank of the south face and then the NW ridge avoiding the last rock step on the Tibetan side. One member had fallen and died below the summit. Since then nobody has attempted the peak. The selection of a route for the expedition involved a major difficulty because of total lack of past information except a photo of the south face in Shiro Sirahata's book.