Vic Bray

Leo Dickinson’s re-editing of the classic first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, filmed by Vic Bray. The 44-year-old original footage was salvaged from a loft and shows Chris Bonington and Don Whillans in action. Readings from Don’s journal add depth and a recreation of a double rope snapping incident adds the necessary spice. What marks this film apart is the film stock which makes the image seem to glow and the leisurely pace Leo has treated the edit. It makes a refreshing contrast to many contemporary films and modern digital filmmakers could be well served by taking note.

In 1955 the Royal Air Force Mountaineering Association underwent an ambitious expedition to climb several unnamed peaks north of Manali in India. The expedition the the Lahoul region, led by Captain Tony Smyth was the first successful mountaineering expedition to this region. The team made several first ascents, among them, to the peaks Taragiri, Tambu, Shikar Beh and Ashagiri.

The 1961 RAF Karakoram Expedition was, like the 1955 RAF Expedition to Lahul, an exploratory expedition to an unknown region. The RAF team in 1961 did not do everything they intended. They did not climb K6, but at least contributed to human knowledge on this peak. With two 22,000 feet and two 20,000 feet summits attained, a glacier system opened up, and a good map, they have no reason to be disappointed with their results. The expedition consisted of twelve British climbers of whom eleven came from the RAF, and one guest climber.