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  • Documentary / Expedition Journal

    Everest - Sea to summit

    Michael Dillon (1992)

    In 1990 Macartney-Snape returned once again to Mt Everest with the idea of climbing the mountain from the sea to the summit. The idea had originally been floated by adventure cameraman Michael Dillon. With sponsorship provided by Australian Geographic amongst others, it would take Macartney-Snape three months to achieve this goal. This was the first time anyone had walked from sea level and reached the top of Mt Everest, as even the first expeditions started from Kathmandu, at 1400m above sea level. Although Macartney-Snape planned climbing Everest via the more difficult West Ridge, bad weather and strong avalanche risk changed his plans and he finally ascended via the South Col route.

    Australia / 59 min

    Everest - Sea to summit

    Michael Dillon

    • 1992
    • Australia
    • 59 min
    In 1990 Macartney-Snape returned once again to Mt Everest with the idea of climbing the mountain from the sea to the summit. The idea had originally been floated by adventure cameraman Michael Dillon. With sponsorship provided by Australian Geographic amongst others, it would take Macartney-Snape three months to achieve this goal. This was the first time anyone had walked from sea level and reached the top of Mt Everest, as even the first expeditions started from Kathmandu, at 1400m above sea level. Although Macartney-Snape planned climbing Everest via the more difficult West Ridge, bad weather and strong avalanche risk changed his plans and he finally ascended via the South Col route.

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  • Documentary / Expedition Journal

    Everest

    Guido Guerrasio (1974)

    1973 Italian Expedition to Everest. The expedition was organized and guided by Guido Monzino, with 11 civilians, 57 Italian soldiers and around 60 Nepalese. In the expedition three helicopters were used to bring the mountaineers to the base camp, recover them in case of difficulty, and transport the material along the Khumbu icefall, from the base camp to camp 2, at 6 500 m, which caused a lot of controversy. The summit was reached by two ropes: May 5 by Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel, Shambu Tamang and Lhakpa Tenzing (chief Sherpa); May 7th by Fabrizio Innamorati, Virginio Epis, Claudio Benedetti and Sonam Gyaljien (Deputy Head Sherpa).

    Italy / 85 min

    Everest

    Guido Guerrasio

    • 1974
    • Italy
    • 85 min
    1973 Italian Expedition to Everest. The expedition was organized and guided by Guido Monzino, with 11 civilians, 57 Italian soldiers and around 60 Nepalese. In the expedition three helicopters were used to bring the mountaineers to the base camp, recover them in case of difficulty, and transport the material along the Khumbu icefall, from the base camp to camp 2, at 6 500 m, which caused a lot of controversy. The summit was reached by two ropes: May 5 by Mirko Minuzzo, Rinaldo Carrel, Shambu Tamang and Lhakpa Tenzing (chief Sherpa); May 7th by Fabrizio Innamorati, Virginio Epis, Claudio Benedetti and Sonam Gyaljien (Deputy Head Sherpa).

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Etoiles et tempêtes

    Gaston Rébuffat (1955)

    Gaston Rebuffat accompanied by Maurie Baquet, climb on the most difficult faces of the alps. This is Rebuffat's thrid film, the first one in color, with wich he won the Grand Prix in the Trento Festival. In the film, Rebuffat exposes his personal vision on how he conceives mountaineering. The film starts going back to his origins and we see him climbing in his homeland, Les Calanques. Then, in Chamonix, Rebuffat meets Maurice Baquet, and teaches him on the climbing techniques on different terrains. We follow them in the most beautiful passages of the north faces of the Piz Badile, Les Grandes Jorasses, the Cima Grande of Lavaredo, the Eiger and the Matterhorn. Their journey ends with the summit of Mont Blanc by the ridge of Peuterey.

    France / 93 min

    Etoiles et tempêtes

    Gaston Rébuffat

    • 1955
    • France
    • 93 min
    Gaston Rebuffat accompanied by Maurie Baquet, climb on the most difficult faces of the alps. This is Rebuffat's thrid film, the first one in color, with wich he won the Grand Prix in the Trento Festival. In the film, Rebuffat exposes his personal vision on how he conceives mountaineering. The film starts going back to his origins and we see him climbing in his homeland, Les Calanques. Then, in Chamonix, Rebuffat meets Maurice Baquet, and teaches him on the climbing techniques on different terrains. We follow them in the most beautiful passages of the north faces of the Piz Badile, Les Grandes Jorasses, the Cima Grande of Lavaredo, the Eiger and the Matterhorn. Their journey ends with the summit of Mont Blanc by the ridge of Peuterey.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Entre terre et ciel

    Gaston Rébuffat (1961)

    This is Gaston Rebuffat's fourth film, in which, with several close friends, he discovers the sublime landscapes of the Alps. 'Mont-Blanc is beautiful. I climbed it many times according to the time, the color of the sky and the shape of the cornices and ridges. Because of the weather and also this sensation of altitude the Mont-Blanc gives a great pleasure. For the guide, Mont Blanc is his garden, but the garden becomes more beautiful when it is shown to a friend. Personally I really like the bivouacs; only there one penetrates a little the mystery of the altitude. That's why I immediately agreed when Tazieff expressed the desire to spend the night at the top of Mont Blanc in an igloo. The film won the Grand Prix in the 1961 Trento Festival.

    France / 76 min

    Entre terre et ciel

    Gaston Rébuffat

    • 1961
    • France
    • 76 min
    This is Gaston Rebuffat's fourth film, in which, with several close friends, he discovers the sublime landscapes of the Alps. 'Mont-Blanc is beautiful. I climbed it many times according to the time, the color of the sky and the shape of the cornices and ridges. Because of the weather and also this sensation of altitude the Mont-Blanc gives a great pleasure. For the guide, Mont Blanc is his garden, but the garden becomes more beautiful when it is shown to a friend. Personally I really like the bivouacs; only there one penetrates a little the mystery of the altitude. That's why I immediately agreed when Tazieff expressed the desire to spend the night at the top of Mont Blanc in an igloo. The film won the Grand Prix in the 1961 Trento Festival.

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  • Documentary / Chronicle

    Dying for Everest

    Richard Dennison (2007)

    On May 15, 2006, double amputee Mark Inglis reached the summit of Mt. Everest. It was a remarkable achievement, and Inglis was feted by the press and public alike. But only a few days later he was plunged into a storm of controversy when it was learned that he and his teammates had passed an incapacitated climber, Englishman David Sharp, leaving him to a lonely death high in the Death Zone. In 'Dying for Everest', we hear their stories and witness the strange effect Everest has on the rules of survival. And at the end, we are able to judge for ourselves the morality of climbing in the Death Zone.

    New Zealand / 52 min

    Dying for Everest

    Richard Dennison

    • 2007
    • New Zealand
    • 52 min
    On May 15, 2006, double amputee Mark Inglis reached the summit of Mt. Everest. It was a remarkable achievement, and Inglis was feted by the press and public alike. But only a few days later he was plunged into a storm of controversy when it was learned that he and his teammates had passed an incapacitated climber, Englishman David Sharp, leaving him to a lonely death high in the Death Zone. In 'Dying for Everest', we hear their stories and witness the strange effect Everest has on the rules of survival. And at the end, we are able to judge for ourselves the morality of climbing in the Death Zone.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Climbing Mount Tupper

    William J. Oliver (1920s)

    William J. Oliver filmed the ascent of Mount Tupper in the Glacier National Park by the famous Swiss mountain guide Edward Feuz accompanied by his daughter and another man. The party of three climb roped up to a height of 7000 feet.From there, the two men continue without the women to face the final part of the climb, 'a naked shaft of rock rising sheer and high'. The two men finally reach the summit and later, on the descent, they meet the woman, who was still waiting for them. The film was sonorized and re-released in 1934 under the title of 'The game is up'. The film was produced by the National Parks of Canada to promote tourism travel to the Canadian Rockies.

    Canada / 11 min

    Climbing Mount Tupper

    William J. Oliver

    • 1920s
    • Canada
    • 11 min
    William J. Oliver filmed the ascent of Mount Tupper in the Glacier National Park by the famous Swiss mountain guide Edward Feuz accompanied by his daughter and another man. The party of three climb roped up to a height of 7000 feet.From there, the two men continue without the women to face the final part of the climb, 'a naked shaft of rock rising sheer and high'. The two men finally reach the summit and later, on the descent, they meet the woman, who was still waiting for them. The film was sonorized and re-released in 1934 under the title of 'The game is up'. The film was produced by the National Parks of Canada to promote tourism travel to the Canadian Rockies.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Ascent of the Matterhorn

    Frank Ormiston-Smith (1903)

    On september 28th, 1903, the Urban Mountaineering Expedition, headed by Frank Ormiston-Smith, left Zermatt to attempt the conquest of the Matterhorn. On the 29th, the conquest was completed by the filming of the panorama from the actual summit of the mountain. The film consists of 20 scenes and illustrates the whole ascent from Zermatt through the Hornli Ridge. A copy of the film was found in Zermatt in 1953 and was was erroneously attributed to Frederick Burlingham and dated 1901. Since then, the film has been widely publicized as the first mountain film under the title of 'Cervin 1901', but this is incorrect. Ormiston previously had made 'Alpine series' (1901), 'The ascent of Mont Blanc' (1902), 'Climbing the Great Schreckhorn' (1902) and 'Ascent of the Jungfrau' (1903). The pictures and descriptions of the Charles Urban Trading 1903 film catalogue show without any doubt that 'Ascent of the Matterhorn' and 'Cervin 1901' are the same film.

    UK / 15 min

    Ascent of the Matterhorn

    Frank Ormiston-Smith

    • 1903
    • UK
    • 15 min
    On september 28th, 1903, the Urban Mountaineering Expedition, headed by Frank Ormiston-Smith, left Zermatt to attempt the conquest of the Matterhorn. On the 29th, the conquest was completed by the filming of the panorama from the actual summit of the mountain. The film consists of 20 scenes and illustrates the whole ascent from Zermatt through the Hornli Ridge. A copy of the film was found in Zermatt in 1953 and was was erroneously attributed to Frederick Burlingham and dated 1901. Since then, the film has been widely publicized as the first mountain film under the title of 'Cervin 1901', but this is incorrect. Ormiston previously had made 'Alpine series' (1901), 'The ascent of Mont Blanc' (1902), 'Climbing the Great Schreckhorn' (1902) and 'Ascent of the Jungfrau' (1903). The pictures and descriptions of the Charles Urban Trading 1903 film catalogue show without any doubt that 'Ascent of the Matterhorn' and 'Cervin 1901' are the same film.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Ascensione al Dente del Gigante

    Mario Piacenza (1911)

    In 1911, Mario Piacenza filmed the ascent to the Dent du Geant. The copy of the film that is preserved, restored by the Museo Nazionale del Cinema of Torino, shows a collection of scenes of three roped climbers ascending to the highest point of the Dent du Geant and then, using ropes to descend from the rock pinnacles. The editing of the film seems to be imprecise and without the intention to constitute a documented narration of the ascent. With better results, Piacenza filmed the year after, the notable 'Ascensione al Cervino', and this suggests that maybe 'Ascensione al Dente del Gigante' served him as a test film for the more ambitions Matterhorn film.

    Italy / 12 min

    Ascensione al Dente del Gigante

    Mario Piacenza

    • 1911
    • Italy
    • 12 min
    In 1911, Mario Piacenza filmed the ascent to the Dent du Geant. The copy of the film that is preserved, restored by the Museo Nazionale del Cinema of Torino, shows a collection of scenes of three roped climbers ascending to the highest point of the Dent du Geant and then, using ropes to descend from the rock pinnacles. The editing of the film seems to be imprecise and without the intention to constitute a documented narration of the ascent. With better results, Piacenza filmed the year after, the notable 'Ascensione al Cervino', and this suggests that maybe 'Ascensione al Dente del Gigante' served him as a test film for the more ambitions Matterhorn film.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Ascensione al Cervino

    Mario Piacenza (1912)

    Mario Piacenza filmed in 1911 an ascent to the Matterhorn from the italian side, by the Lion Ridge. In the film, a party of four climbers ascend from Cervinia to the Colle del Leone. From there they start the real rock climbing part. The team ascend the chimney using a fixed rope with knots to reach the Luigi di Savoia Hut at 3830 meters and later, the snow covered Tyndall Peak. Finally the team arrive to the Italian summit and two men cross to Swiss side. The film ends with a panoramic of the Matterhorn from Zermatt, suggesting the descent down the Swiss face.

    Italy / 14 min

    Ascensione al Cervino

    Mario Piacenza

    • 1912
    • Italy
    • 14 min
    Mario Piacenza filmed in 1911 an ascent to the Matterhorn from the italian side, by the Lion Ridge. In the film, a party of four climbers ascend from Cervinia to the Colle del Leone. From there they start the real rock climbing part. The team ascend the chimney using a fixed rope with knots to reach the Luigi di Savoia Hut at 3830 meters and later, the snow covered Tyndall Peak. Finally the team arrive to the Italian summit and two men cross to Swiss side. The film ends with a panoramic of the Matterhorn from Zermatt, suggesting the descent down the Swiss face.

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  • Documentary / Climbing Journal

    Mountaineering memories

    C.L. Chester (1918)

    A scenic record of the climb up to Mount Assiniboine, the 'American Matterhorn' in the Canadian Rockies. The team makes the approach on horseback and camps at the base of the mountain. A party of three men climb the mountain equipped with nailed boots, ropes and ice axes, crossing icefields and climbing steep rocks. The final scenes are the breathtaking views from the summit and of the majestic mountain reflected in the lake Magog. The film was produced as a part of a group of short-subject travelogues by C. L. Chester and Outing Magazine.

    Canada / 12 min

    Mountaineering memories

    C.L. Chester

    • 1918
    • Canada
    • 12 min
    A scenic record of the climb up to Mount Assiniboine, the 'American Matterhorn' in the Canadian Rockies. The team makes the approach on horseback and camps at the base of the mountain. A party of three men climb the mountain equipped with nailed boots, ropes and ice axes, crossing icefields and climbing steep rocks. The final scenes are the breathtaking views from the summit and of the majestic mountain reflected in the lake Magog. The film was produced as a part of a group of short-subject travelogues by C. L. Chester and Outing Magazine.

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  • Drama / Thriller

    Venner

    Tancred Ibsen (1960)

    Mountain climbing and its dangers get a different twist in this standard drama by Norwegian director Tancred Ibsen. When one of two climbing buddies returns from an attempt to scale Eagle Peak, he is happy to claim his award for being the first to reach the summit. But his celebration is short-lived after his friend comes back down from the mountain with another version of his 'victory' climb. This second version has the supposedly successful climber cast as an attempted murderer. The story behind the climb comes out in flashbacks as the Alpine Club reviews the accusation.

    Norway / 91 min

    Venner

    Tancred Ibsen

    • 1960
    • Norway
    • 91 min
    Mountain climbing and its dangers get a different twist in this standard drama by Norwegian director Tancred Ibsen. When one of two climbing buddies returns from an attempt to scale Eagle Peak, he is happy to claim his award for being the first to reach the summit. But his celebration is short-lived after his friend comes back down from the mountain with another version of his 'victory' climb. This second version has the supposedly successful climber cast as an attempted murderer. The story behind the climb comes out in flashbacks as the Alpine Club reviews the accusation.

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  • Documentary / Chronicle

    Un guide sur l'everest

    Christophe Raylat (2010)

    After a brief review of the history of the expeditions to Mount Everest, the documentary focuses on the figure of Bernard Muller, founder of Stages Expedition, and one of the first guides to lead mountaineers to the summit of Everest. Since 1990, the agency has organized dozens of successful ascents on the biggest peaks of the planet, and especially on Everest. The film pays attention to Muller's expedition to Manaslu in 1981 (where he made the first ascent of the west wall together with Pierre Beghin) and to his last expedition to Mount Everest in 2006.

    France / 21 min

    Un guide sur l'everest

    Christophe Raylat

    • 2010
    • France
    • 21 min
    After a brief review of the history of the expeditions to Mount Everest, the documentary focuses on the figure of Bernard Muller, founder of Stages Expedition, and one of the first guides to lead mountaineers to the summit of Everest. Since 1990, the agency has organized dozens of successful ascents on the biggest peaks of the planet, and especially on Everest. The film pays attention to Muller's expedition to Manaslu in 1981 (where he made the first ascent of the west wall together with Pierre Beghin) and to his last expedition to Mount Everest in 2006.

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